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The cables probably aren't worth more than $20 apart from the welder itself. Together with the welder, in good shape, the machine may be worth $100 to $150 depending on how you decide to market the unit.

Unfortunately, there is no simple solution to your problem. We discontinued that machine some time ago and have no repair parts to offer. You may need a new control board, which may be available online somewhere.

The on/off switch of that welder is an appliance switch rated at 50 amps, and can be found at an electrical supply store. Install that switch and you should be good to go.

The largest plug we have available is 3/8". They are recommended for the older Forney welders and our service technician says they should work. We also have the appropriate output jacks if you would like to change those to accommodate the smaller plug size. These plugs can be found on our web store at www.forneyind.com/store.

The battery charger cables aren't available as a manufactured item, but they can be built. The part numbers for the plug ins are 57901 and 57902. They can be used on welding cable sizes #2 - #6. These products can be found on our website, www.forneyind.com. Here are a couple of companies that may have the carbon torch rods: Cinema Equipment & Supply in Memphis at 800-759-5905, and Mauer Welding Supply, in Oskaloosa, IA 641-673-7565. We do not have any soldering irons available for this machine.

Forney no longer carries this capacitor, however they are still available in the market. The part you need, in order to operate the machine safely, is a 20 mfd 370 volt oil filled capacitor. Two sources are Packard Inc at 800-334-1769 part # PRC-20 and Galco Ind. Electronics at 800-337-0746 part # 97F9039.

The plug-in connectors are Forney part numbers 57901 and 57902. The "1" has a black sleeve and the "2" has a red sleeve. They are available on our web store at www.forneyind.com.

Cable assemblies are no longer available, however, they can be created from existing plugs, cable, electrode holders and ground clamps. The part numbers for the plug-ins are 57901 and 57902. They can be used on welding cable sizes #2 - #6. These products can be found on our website, www.forneyind.com.

Our last source for those 'Double Eagle' carbons was the Marble Company at 800-759-5905.

The only parts available from Forney on this discontinued welder would be serviceable replacement leads. For other parts, we would suggest contacting the original vendor, L.B.L. Inc., in the Chicago area at 708-579-5893.

The part that is leaking and smoking is most likely the capacitor. We no longer stock those, but here are a couple of potential suppliers that might be able to help you out. Please let them know you need the 20MFA, 370VOC, oil filled capacitor. Packard Ind. 800-334-7169. Galco Industrial Electronics 800-575-5562.

The few parts for those old Forney welders that are still available (lead components & female jacks) can be found on our website, www.forneyind.com.

We do not stock the premade cables with electrode and ground clamp for these units any longer. However, all the components are available on our website at www.forneyind.com. The Sure Grip Plugs that plug into the welder are item numbers 57901 and 57902. The website offers several options of electrode holders and ground clamps as well as various cable sizes to fit your needs.

Here are two contacts for the capacitor you¹re looking for.

Packard, Inc. 800-334-1769
Galco Industrial Electronics 800-575-5562.

Please let them know you need a 20MFD, 370VOC unit.

If it's the black nut on the outside of the output jack, our item number is 57501.  We also have the fiber washer for that, our item number is 57404.

For a lead 25' or less, you can use a #4 wire.  For longer leads, a #2 would be better.

The first step in removing the swan neck liner is to open the gun case. Be careful, because it will have to go back the same way. The electrical wire routing is important if you want to close the case tight again. Make a note of how the trigger assembly works. Do not lose the hinge pin for the trigger. Try to lift the aluminum gas block out of the case without disturbing anything else. You need to get access to the set screw near the end of the gas block next to where the swans neck enters the gas block.


Loosen the set screw. While holding the gas block, twist the swans neck back and forth and pull at the same time. It should not take much effort to remove the swan's neck. Inside is the short liner sometimes with a rubber o ring. I have found that that o ring can cause problems, causing the wire to catch at that point. My advice is to remove that o ring before you insert the new wire liner. The funnel shape on the end of the liner goes toward the gas block and fits in a recession at the end of the swan's neck hole in the gas block. The swans neck is inserted into the hole until it bottoms out.


Make sure the neck is pointed in the same direction as it was before you removed it. Re-tighten the set screw and put the gun halves back together.


Be sure you check the trigger wiring to make sure the connectors are together firmly and the trigger has a lip that must go inside the gun housing. If you find that the halves of the gun do not go together, tightly rearrange the wires and there is a ledge on the cable shield that must be in the correct position.